New Orleans. Those two words conjure up images of debauchery -- drunken nights on Bourbon Street filled with beads, boobs and free-flowing booze. I've been to the Louisiana city three times, and while I'll admit that I've partaken in my fair share of stereotypical French Quarter fun, I have to add that there's so much more to NOLA -- and the surrounding Gulf Coast region -- than its reputation implies. This Where to Wander Wednesday spotlights a few of my favorite things from my most recent journey to the land of Mardi Grad madness.
Obligatory shot of Jackson Square and St. Louis Cathedral.
One of the first thing tourists do in New Orleans is head to the French Quarter -- and for good reason. The historic neighborhood is the oldest in the city, dating back to 1718, and as such, it's a maze of striking architecture and landmark attractions, like Jackson Square, St. Louis Cathedral and the legendary Cafe du Monde, the home of cafe au lait and the quintessentially deep-fried beignet. Open 24 hours a day, seven days a week -- with the exception of Christmas Day and during active hurricanes -- the "Original French Market Coffee Stand" has been serving the sweet staple -- covered with an inches-high mound of powdered sugar -- since 1862, and it's worth at least one visit for history's sake. Just don't wear black or expect the friendliest Southern hospitality; with its widespread reputation and revolving door of tourists, the restaurant doesn't need to work very hard to woo customers.
Try as I might, I can never resist Cafe du Monde beignets!
My most recent trip took me to New Orleans for a work conference, and because I was traveling solo, I was warned about safety in the city at night. So instead of hitting up the ubiquitous bars, night clubs and live music venues that line the tightly packed streets, and instead of tossing back a Hurricane or three and stumbling my way back to my conference hotel, I opted to do my sightseeing by day -- um, after the conference sessions, of course, boss -- and meet up with friends for dinner. Luckily, I was able to reconnect with both a high school and college friend who now call New Orleans home, and they introduced me to off-the-Bourbon-path dining destinations favored by locals. My favorite was Adolfo's, a tiny hole in the wall that serves rich and delicious Italian cuisine with a Creole-Cajon twist. It's located atop a rickety wooden staircase above the Apple Barrel Bar on Frenchmen Street in the Marigny, far enough off Bourbon to feel different (and safer), yet still lively and eclectic thanks to the energy of musicians busking on corners and in doorways.
Perhaps my favorite thing about this trip to New Orleans was the road trip I took that ventured outside of New Orleans. On my way out of the city, I drove through wards -- particularly the 9th Ward -- still utterly devastated by 2005's tremendous Hurricane Katrina. I stopped for a tour of the Villalobos Rescue Center, the site of the Animal Planet show Pit Bulls and Parolees, and I envisioned what the "City of Second Chances," as a mural depicts on the side of the rescue facility, could be if only it had the resources to pull itself out from the depths of its despair. (NOTE: Due to recent threats to staff, Villalobos Rescue Center no longer offers tours of its facility.)
Villalobos Rescue Center, changing lives one pit bull and one parolee at a time.
Once I left the city of New Orleans, I crossed the spectacular Lake Pontchartrain Causeway, where you're driving almost at sea level across "the world's longest bridge over a body of water." Do this drive during sunset and you're in for an absolute treat; I specifically timed my return drive to witness Mother Nature in all her colorful glory. Now, I could wax poetic for days about my love of a solo road trip, windows down, music up, nothing but the open road in front of me, but I'll spare you -- for now.
Miles of white sand along the Gulf Coast
Suffice it to say, I loved cruising along the Gulf Coast, stopping along the way for Southern Pecan Nut Brown Ale at Lazy Magnolia Brewery, "Mississippi's Oldest Brewery" in Kiln, Mississippi, dating all the way back to 2003 (the Deep South still has some pretty funky alcohol laws); fried green tomatoes at Blow Fly Inn in Gulfport, Mississippi (as seen on Diners, Drive-ins and Dives); and photo ops of white-sand beaches on the way to Biloxi.
Lazy Magnolia, Mississippi's Oldest Brewery: Worth a trip -- and more than a few sips -- in Kiln, Mississippi, about an hour's drive from New Orleans.
I've said before that I truly love the journey as much, if not more than, the destination. That sentiment rung true on my tour of the Gulf Coast. My destination may have been New Orleans, but with so many more sights to see, flavors to taste and neighborhoods to explore, and so much more history and culture to appreciate than just one city could offer, the journey beyond the city limits was well worth taking. And I know there's so much more out there I still need to explore.
Sun setting on the Gulf Coast near Gulfport, Mississippi