Beyond Bourbon

New Orleans. Those two words conjure up images of debauchery -- drunken nights on Bourbon Street filled with beads, boobs and free-flowing booze. I've been to the Louisiana city three times, and while I'll admit that I've partaken in my fair share of stereotypical French Quarter fun, I have to add that there's so much more to NOLA -- and the surrounding Gulf Coast region -- than its reputation implies. This Where to Wander Wednesday spotlights a few of my favorite things from my most recent journey to the land of Mardi Grad madness. 

Obligatory shot of Jackson Square and St. Louis Cathedral. 

One of the first thing tourists do in New Orleans is head to the French Quarter -- and for good reason. The historic neighborhood is the oldest in the city, dating back to 1718, and as such, it's a maze of striking architecture and landmark attractions, like Jackson Square, St. Louis Cathedral and the legendary Cafe du Monde, the home of cafe au lait and the quintessentially deep-fried beignet. Open 24 hours a day, seven days a week -- with the exception of Christmas Day and during active hurricanes -- the "Original French Market Coffee Stand" has been serving the sweet staple -- covered with an inches-high mound of powdered sugar -- since 1862, and it's worth at least one visit for history's sake. Just don't wear black or expect the friendliest Southern hospitality; with its widespread reputation and revolving door of tourists, the restaurant doesn't need to work very hard to woo customers. 

Try as I might, I can never resist Cafe du Monde beignets! 

My most recent trip took me to New Orleans for a work conference, and because I was traveling solo, I was warned about safety in the city at night. So instead of hitting up the ubiquitous bars, night clubs and live music venues that line the tightly packed streets, and instead of tossing back a Hurricane or three and stumbling my way back to my conference hotel, I opted to do my sightseeing by day -- um, after the conference sessions, of course, boss -- and meet up with friends for dinner. Luckily, I was able to reconnect with both a high school and college friend who now call New Orleans home, and they introduced me to off-the-Bourbon-path dining destinations favored by locals. My favorite was Adolfo's, a tiny hole in the wall that serves rich and delicious Italian cuisine with a Creole-Cajon twist. It's located atop a rickety wooden staircase above the Apple Barrel Bar on Frenchmen Street in the Marigny, far enough off Bourbon to feel different (and safer), yet still lively and eclectic thanks to the energy of musicians busking on corners and in doorways. 

Perhaps my favorite thing about this trip to New Orleans was the road trip I took that ventured outside of New Orleans. On my way out of the city, I drove through wards -- particularly the 9th Ward -- still utterly devastated by 2005's tremendous Hurricane Katrina. I stopped for a tour of the Villalobos Rescue Center, the site of the Animal Planet show Pit Bulls and Parolees, and I envisioned what the "City of Second Chances," as a mural depicts on the side of the rescue facility, could be if only it had the resources to pull itself out from the depths of its despair. (NOTE: Due to recent threats to staff, Villalobos Rescue Center no longer offers tours of its facility.) 

Villalobos Rescue Center, changing lives one pit bull and one parolee at a time. 

Once I left the city of New Orleans, I crossed the spectacular Lake Pontchartrain Causeway, where you're driving almost at sea level across "the world's longest bridge over a body of water." Do this drive during sunset and you're in for an absolute treat; I specifically timed my return drive to witness Mother Nature in all her colorful glory. Now, I could wax poetic for days about my love of a solo road trip, windows down, music up, nothing but the open road in front of me, but I'll spare you -- for now.

Miles of white sand along the Gulf Coast

Suffice it to say, I loved cruising along the Gulf Coast, stopping along the way for Southern Pecan Nut Brown Ale at Lazy Magnolia Brewery, "Mississippi's Oldest Brewery" in Kiln, Mississippi, dating all the way back to 2003 (the Deep South still has some pretty funky alcohol laws); fried green tomatoes at Blow Fly Inn in Gulfport, Mississippi (as seen on Diners, Drive-ins and Dives); and photo ops of white-sand beaches on the way to Biloxi. 

Lazy Magnolia, Mississippi's Oldest Brewery: Worth a trip -- and more than a few sips -- in Kiln, Mississippi, about an hour's drive from New Orleans. 

I've said before that I truly love the journey as much, if not more than, the destination. That sentiment rung true on my tour of the Gulf Coast. My destination may have been New Orleans, but with so many more sights to see, flavors to taste and neighborhoods to explore, and so much more history and culture to appreciate than just one city could offer, the journey beyond the city limits was well worth taking. And I know there's so much more out there I still need to explore. 

Sun setting on the Gulf Coast near Gulfport, Mississippi 

On Top of the World in Oia

As a wanderluster with an appreciation almost as much for the journey as for the destination, I can find something to marvel at no matter where I go -- whether it's the middle of absolutely nowhere in Texas (where I simply marvel at the massive size of Texas!) or on top of the world in one of the most spectacular places I've ever visited: Oia, on the Greek Island of Santorini. This Where to Wander Wednesday is dedicated to that volcanic island and the awe it inspires at every turn. 

Yes, it really does look like it does in pictures. 

I know that everyone and their grandmother who has ever been to Santorini has the same photo, but that's OK. It simply shows that no matter when you go, you'll be lucky enough to witness the same beauty experienced by generations of tourists before you -- and generations of travelers to come. While I do love "the road less traveled," sometimes the road more traveled is also worth taking. Santorini is that road. One of the Cyclades Islands in the Aegean Sea, the island as it is today was formed by a volcanic eruption in the 16th century, leaving it rugged, dramatic and a sight to behold. Santorini curves around an underwater caldera, or crater, and its volcanic nature is easily recognizable in the red-rocked cliffs and black-sand beaches that shape its coast. 

You first experience the drama that is life on the edge of a volcano when you arrive by ferry or cruise ship from Athens or one of the other Greek Isles. The bus ride up the hill from the port is enough to make you hold your breath -- and pray that the driver hasn't been sipping some of the ouzo or raki that is abundant at every Greek meal! The most popular of the Greek Islands, Santorini's two biggest towns are Fira, in the center, and Oia, on the northern tip. On my three-night stay I didn't make it to Fira, opting instead for the oft-photographed, artsy and incredible Oia. Despite the crowds and the heat (I was there in July -- avoid August at all costs!), it remains one of my all-time favorite destinations. Quintessential white-washed houses are at every turn, freshly painted each year to keep up their classic appearance; turquoise domes and bright pink bougainvillea pop with color among the white cliffs; top-of-the-world sunsets draw applause nightly from wine-sipping crowds perched on rooftops, cliffs, walkways, restaurant patios -- anywhere and everywhere they can get spot; and nights are spent sleeping in upscale hotel rooms carved into cliffside caves. 

That's where my first Where to Wander Wednesday recommendation comes in: Stay in a cave hotel. My choice: Filotera Suites, where one of Oia's many cliffside hotel pools dangles high above Amoudi Bay, offering panoramic, pinch-me-I'm-dreaming caldera views as far as the eye can see. 

The view from inside the cave. Not too shabby. 

It's easy to stay perfectly content high above the water in Oia, but it's worth hiking down the 300 steps to tiny Amoudi Bay below, where fishing boats dock and a row of open-air waterfront restaurant shacks allow the waves to crash right at your table.

The red-rocked view from the bottom up. 

After a bottle or four of Mythos beer, you may be tempted to hitch a ride on one of the donkeys awaiting weary travelers, but (here comes my animal advocacy PSA) please don't. You get to jump off the rocks into the refreshing (aka COLD) Aegean at the bottom of the steps or back into your hotel's infinity pool at the top; those poor donkeys have no such luxury. 

Jump on in -- the water's fine! And by fine, I mean absolutely freezing, but totally worth it! 

Sweet donkeys -- look, but don't ride! 

With all the beauty, food (blocks of salty, delicious feta cheese everywhere!), drink, shopping and relaxation all in tiny Oia, there's really no need to leave, but as a traveler who likes to jam-pack way too many things into my trips, I can always find a reason. In Santorini, that reason was one of the volcanic beaches on the other side of the island: Kamari Beach, a resort town with a bustling waterfront walkway and a black-pebble beach surrounded by rocky mountains. 

Black sand and beach bar service -- take me back! 

With breathtaking beauty everywhere you turn on Santorini, it's hard to believe that the island was formed by one of the most dramatic eruptions only Mother Nature could conjure. But out of the ashes arose an amazing destination -- one to which I absoultely can't wait to return.  

Juneau Where You Are?

You're in Alaska, baby, and you're going to fly! And fly I did -- thanks to an adrenaline-pumping outing with Alaska Zipline Adventures in Juneau, the remote state's even more remote capital. Reachable only by boat or seaplane, Juneau is a popular cruise ship port, one of my favorite stops on a week-long cruise of Alaska's Inside Passage and this week's Where to Wander Wednesday destination spotlight. 

Alaska: The Last Frontier. The Land of the Midnight Sun. Seward's Folly. Whatever you want to call it, our 49th state is a wonder worthy of exploration. Secretary of State William Seward may have been ridiculed in the late 1800s for his insistence on purchasing the vast piece of land from Russia, but to the nearly two million tourists each year who set their sights on the spectacular northwestern state, the destination is no joke. In fact, it's a serious bucket list trip for many wanderlusters looking for breathtaking scenery, outdoor adventures, fresh air, wildlife encounters and endless daylight -- as long as it's summertime. Give me 18 hours of sunlight and 80-degree temperatures and I'm a happy traveler. Give me the opposite, not so much. As my dear friend Jay -- who has lived in Anchorage for years -- would say, "Going from San Diego to Alaska in the middle of winter would be like jumping into a cold pool after getting out of a sauna...with a blindfold on." In other words, the cold and dark isn't for weather wimps like me. 

Good thing it was mid-June when we embarked on our seven-day journey from Vancouver, British Columbia, to Whittier, Alaska, just outside of Anchorage. In addition to Juneau, the ship stopped in Ketchikan and Skagway, and included a day of scenic cruising through the breathtaking (literally -- even in the summer, the air is crisp enough to take your breath away) Glacier Bay National Park. 

The whole trip was incredible, with photo ops at every turn. Cruising by thunderous, calving glaciers and crystal-blue icebergs. Strolling through Gold Rush towns that seem to be lost in time. Scoping out wildlife -- eagles, bears and moose, oh my! 

But in the spirit of Where to Wander Wednesday, I'll highlight one city and two of my favorite things to do in that city. In Juneau, tourists flock to the Mendenhall Glacier, a 13-mile-long face of ice just outside of the city and accessible inexpensively by shuttle bus. Dating back 3,000 years to the last ice age, the glacier is one of 38 large glaciers that make up the 1,500-square-mile Juneau Icefield. Part of Tongass National Forest, the park offers six trails for different vantage points -- all with opportunities to encounter wildlife (check out the bear-proof trash cans!) and waterfalls. 

It was an unseasonably warm day in Juneau the day we visited, with a high in the 80s (typical June highs are in the mid 60s), a low of 59 and 18 hours of sunlight -- leading us silly San Diegans to foolishly remark, "We could totally live here!" Juneau residents, on the other hand, were sweating feverishly and cooling off by swimming -- yes, swimming! -- next to icebergs in the glacial waters. Even with 80-degree air temperatures, swimming in iceberg water is decidedly not for weather wimps like me! 

While glacier viewing is fine family fun for tourists of all types, my number-one favorite attraction in Juneau came courtesy of the aforementioned Alaska Zipline Adventures, which offers exhilarating zipline tours through the emerald-green Juneau rainforest. Not for the faint of heart or feared of heights, the nearly four-hour tour through the treetops is a must for adrenaline junkies. Having ziplined previously in Hawaii, I was a cocky second-timer -- until I got to the suspension bridge portion of the experience. For some reason, even secured by a harness, crossing a way-too-wobbly-for-my-liking wooden bridge over a "rushing salmon-spawning stream" was 10 times more terrifying than flying through the forest at fast speeds. After seven zips and the death-defying bridge crossing, the tour ended with an axe-throwing challenge that proved I was certainly not a lumberjack in a former life. 

Because a trip to Alaska wouldn't be complete without feasting on Alaskan king crab legs, our final stop for the day was Tracy's King Crab Shack, where we met up with the monster below and snacked on some of his delicious friends before heading back to the ship -- convinced that although truly no roads lead to Juneau, a journey to the scenic Alaska capital is one worth making. 

Handbags, Not Heinekens

OK, maybe the title lies just a little. There may have been a few Heinekens. But really, who's counting? And when you're in Amsterdam, let's be honest: A couple of light beers are really the mildest of the vices available for indulging! 

Amsterdam, The Netherlands: That's the destination for today's blog post. On a day I've decided to coin "Where to Wander Wednesday," (say that three times fast, then hashtag it!) I'm going to highlight weekly a city I've visited and two of my favorite attractions in that city--one that's well known and one that's hopefully at least a little offbeat--with the goal of inspiring you to not just follow a guidebook, but also follow your curiosity and your sense of adventure. Be inquisitive. Ask a local their favorite spot to hang out on a Saturday afternoon. If you're traveling with friends or a partner, take an afternoon off from each other and explore something that YOU want to do, even if they're not interested. 

That's how I ended up in one of my favorite little spots in Amsterdam: Tassen Museum Hendrikje, Museum of Bags and Purses. Yes, you read that right: A museum dedicated to purses. Prior to stumbling upon this gem of an attraction, I thought the only such paradise in existence was the Louis Vuitton emporium. Wrong. Apparently, the Dutch appreciate the awesomeness that is a perfectly crafted handbag and they're not afraid to admit it--in fine museum fashion. 

Five hundred years of bag and purse history? How could this NOT be amazing? 

Now, I should probably mention that I was in Amsterdam at the beginning of my honeymoon. It was the embarkation port for our Baltic Sea cruise. Not surprisingly, my new husband was not super stoked (as he would say) about going to a purse museum on his honeymoon (or ever). In fact, he'd probably say he could just look in my closet and see enough purses to last a lifetime. But me, well, I thought handbags and honeymoons were a perfect match. After all, my Louis Vuitton bags and I are committed to each other for life. It only made sense that I learn a little about my lifelong purse partner's past. So, I followed my own advice and ventured off on my own for an hour or two of handbag heaven. 

Even for a self-proclaimed purse fanatic, an hour or two was really all I needed to get my fill. I'm admittedly not a museum lover. I'm very tactile and like to touch things; they frown on that at museums. I also can't usually be bothered to read the descriptions on museum displays, so I'll just stand in front of them for what I think is long enough to give the illusion of reading. At the Museum of Bags and Purses, it was enjoyable enough to just slowly peruse the cases, admiring the intricate beauty of the more than 5,000 bags in the museum's collection, dating as far back as the Middle Ages, and imagining what life was like for the women who were carrying them.

Oh beautiful feathered bag, how I adore thee! 

The museum itself is charming, housed in a 17th century canal house that once served as a mayor's residence. It was worth the stop just to see inside such a historic and beautifully preserved building. If you're feeling fancy, the museum also serves high tea in its restaurant and in one of two 17th and 18th century period rooms. 

All in all, it was a lovely solo outing ogling centuries worth of stunning accessories. I did feel badly for all the husbands whose wives didn't have the decency to leave them at the hotel like I did mine. Undeniably, those husbands deserved an afternoon at the next favorite spot on my Amsterdam adventure: The Heineken Experience.  

A museum in its own right (see, I do like museums, as long as they involve things like purses and beer. Is there one for shoes somewhere? If so, how quickly can I get there?), this interactive brewery tour is to Amsterdam what the Guinness Storehouse is to Dublin (I'll save that for another post): an ode to the history, promotion and brewing process of the city's most commercialized product, filled with little interactive exhibits, like designing your own label, taking silly photo booth photos and videos against funny backgrounds, mixing ingredients in vats and barrels, attempting to pour the perfect beer and, of course, tasting the finished product.  

At the end of the day, after you've raised a glass or two to the fine city of Amsterdam and the green-bottled beer that it introduced to the world, the Heineken Experience is fun enough that it makes you forget that you never really liked the taste of Heineken in the first place.